Method of making shoe welting



Oct. 20, 1942. w, c, v z p 2,299,516

METHOD OF MAKING SHOE WELTING Filed May 13. 1942 Patented Oct. 20, 1942 William C. Vizard, Brockton, Barbour Welting Company, copartnership composed of Walter G.

Mass, assignor to Brockton, Mass., a Perley E. Barbour,

Barbour, and Richard H. Barbour Application May is, 1942, Serial No. 442,777 4 Claims; (01. 12-146) This invention relates to a method .of making shoe welting, and pertains more particularly to abrasion and wear. decked platform welting has ordiretaining the character shoe even if the outer face of the platform should become scuffed or worn. The improved welting is preferably made by rabbeting a relatively narrow, longitudinal groove adjacent the center of a leather fillet and forming a relatively Wide channel along the margin of the fillet, preferably by cutting the flesh side of grain leather to provide a flap having a longitudinal core of flesh stock between the two channels; then folding the fillet upon itself so that the core rests upon the flesh body and a thin grainlip covers the core and the flesh surface at the and finally cementing the parts into structure by molding under'pressure.

Recommended embodiments of the invention are shown in the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a leather fillet showing the mode of rabbeting and channeling the flesh side of the fillet;

Fig. 2 is a similar view illustrating the folding of the grain flap and core onto the flesh body of the fillet;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the completed welt, with a beveled string being removed from the inseam edge of the folded grain flap;

Fig. 4 illustrates the formation of two welt fillets from a double strand, as an alternative method;

a unified and appearance of the inseam edge of the welt; 1

base of the body portion Fig. 5 is a fragmentary transverse section through the toe portion of a lasted shoe equipped with the welting of Fig. 3; and

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 1 showing an optional step of chamfering the corner of the flesh core. a

In the particular embodiment chosen for the the fillet intermediate the sides thereof, to provide a relatively deep longitudinal groove I5 approximately inch in width, located at one side of the longitudinal-center of the fillet and defining a marginal flesh body I6. Another relatively wide rectang ular strip ll of flesh stock is out along the opposite margin of the fillet, leaving a thin grain flap [8 approximately inch wide and 'defining a longitudinal flesh core l9 slightly over inch Wide disposed between the channels leftvby the removal of the strips I4 and H.

The thin grain strip 20 at the bottom of groove l5 constitutes a flexible hinge and cover piece on which the flap I8 is then folded over the flesh body l6, so that the integral core l9 rests edgewise on the top of said flesh body. The thin margin of the grain flap I8 is pressed downwardly over the core l9 and onto the outer margin of the body portion l6, and the folded parts are preferably cemented together and molded under pressure to the shape shown in Fig. 3.

Either prior or subsequent to the molding operation a triangular string 2| is preferably cut from the extreme longitudinal edge of the flap l8 to provide a thin and flexible sewing edge; and a deep, diagonal sewing groove 22 is cut in the 4 Hi. It will be apparent that the top, bottom and one side of a Welt thus formed present grain surfaces and that the remaining side of exposed flesh stock constitutes the sewing edge of the welt.

When the welt isapplied to a lasted shoe as shown in Fig. 5, this sewing edge fits well under the feather 23 of the insole 24 where it is retained by the usual inseam stitch 25. stitch is buried deep in the groove 22, a substantial portion of the welt body [6, as well as the upper margin 26 and sewing lip 21, may be trimmed away without stranding the thread, thereby affording. a substantially flat base for the laying and cementing of the outsole in the usual way. When thus embodied in a shoe, the

Z grain surface at the outside of the welt is disposed at right angles to the tread of the shoe; the decked platform or bead 28, formed by the core it and its cover flap I8, hugs the crease of the upper in line with the feather 23, thereby supporting the upper and holding the shape of the shoe; and any scuffing or. abrasion of the exposed grain surface of the welt will not impair its shape-retaining qualities which are preserved by the integral, non-displaceable core l9.

In the modification illustrated in Fig. 6, a corner of the core strip i9 is cham'tered by remov ing a flesh strip 29 having a diagonal inner edge;

and this practice is preferredwhenthelfull width I or thickness of the bead 28;o f {Eigfbgis not-nan-v -forf-in'jsuch; case j j essential feature of the shoe;

wide and deep channel in said flesh part along one longitudinal margin of the fillet, thereby to provide a thin central hinge portion and a thin marginal fiap of grain stock, a longitudinal core of flesh stock between said groove and said channel and a thick body portion along the opposite margin of the fillet, folding the fillet on said hinge portion so that the core rests edgewise on top of the body, and pressing and cementing said marginal flap onto said body along the sewing v edge of the welt.

ing a relativelylnarrow,

- the flesh side -of the flap it need not be as widens the, flap 1 8 of Fig. l and a saving of material may thus be effected while preserving the main advantages It will be understood that the cutaway strips or strings M, H, 2| and 29 may be removed in anydes ired order and'may be employed either; as s'titchdown welting or as filler pieces in other types'of beaded welting, so that this stock is not wasted by practicing the methods of this invention.

A further saving of leather maybe afforded by cutting, a pair of fillets from a double strand slightly less than twice the width of i the fillet I l, as shown in Fig. 4:. In this optional method, the double width strand is divided longitudinally by a z-shaped cutwhich forms the flaps 38 and 38' anddefines one side of the respective core pieces 39. Grooves 35, corresponding to the groove I5 of Fig. 1, are rabbeted in the flesh side of each of the divided fillets; and the resulting fillets 3i and Bi are folded, pressed and molded as previously described. It will be noted that the margin of flap 38 is composed of flesh stock, but it will be appreciated that this'fieshmargin will be located along the inseam edge of the finished welt and consequently will not impair thedesired grain effect of the exposedareaof the welt deck or platform when the'weltingis built into a shoe asinFig.5. I f f One corner of each of the'core strips 39 may be chamfered, if desired, according'tothe optional method of Fig. 6. i

The cuts above knives operating along leather stock, and the of the integral core folding, cementing and molding operations may be automatically performed by suitable machines, as is well understood.

Iclaim:

l. The method of making platform welting of the character described, which consists in forrn ing a relatively narrow and deep, longitudinal groove in the flesh part of a fillet of grain leather,

adjacent the center thereof, forming a relatively described may bemade by a continuous strip of .wide v strip of moving a relatively 2.-The method the character described,

of making platform welting oi which consists in removlongitudinal strip from a fillet of grain leather, intermediat'egthe sides thereof, removing a relatively flesh stock from one longitudinal margin of said fillet to provide a grain flap having ;anyintegral longitudinal core piece between the channels formed by the removed strips, folding the grain flap over the flesh body on the oppp's it e' margin of the fillet so that the core piece restsion said body, and securing the marginof saidgrain flap to the top of said flesh body along the sewing edge of the welt.

3. The 'method of making platform welting of the character described, which consists in removing a relatively narrow, longitudinal strip from the flesh side of a fillet of grain leather, intermediate the sides thereof, removing a relatively wide strip oi flesh stock fron'r one longitudinal margin of said fillet to provide a grain flap having an integral longitudinal core piece between the channels formed by the removed strips, folding the grain flap over the flesh body on the opposite margin of the fillet so that the core piecerests edgewise on said body, cementing the :marginot said grain flap to the top of said flesh body along the sewing edge of the welt, skiving the edge of said grain flap margin, and forming a deep diagonal inseam groove in the bottom of said body portion. V

The method of making platform welting of the character described, which consists in renarrow, longitudinal strip offa fillet of grain leather, re-

thereof, removing a relatively from the flesh side mote from the sides wide strip of flesh stock from one longitudinal rriargin of said fillet to provide a grain flap having an integrallongitudinal core piece between the channels formed by the removed strips, chamfering a longitudinal. corner of said core piece so that said core is substantiallytriangular in cross section, folding the grain core piece I p V I v menting .the margin of said" grain flap to the top of said flesh body along. the sewing edge of the welt;

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

, flap over theflesh body. on the opposite margin of the fillet so that the rests edgewise onsaid body, and ce 

